Air conditioner for automobile book free download

If at the first instant the unit is plugged in and starts running, the voltage drop registered exceeds or falls under the minimum compressor requirement, chances are that there is too much load on that particular circuit.

Advise the customer to have an electrician provide the unit with an independent line to meet the requirement of the compressor manufacturer. Do not touch any wires until the power source is disconnected. Unit dead. No hum. Insert the a. Check circuit breaker. Flip breaker to two check light probes into the power ON position if open. Remove every wire from the compressor 1. Set cold control at its lowest setting. Remove compressor compartment 2. Connect the three test cord clips see fig.

Connect power to the unit. Connect the two test light alligator 4. Depress the button on the test cord clips to the two relay terminals that momentarily and release it.

If compressor starts and continues a. The light glows. If compressor does not start, replace compressor. If compressor starts, but stops 1. Connect the two test-light probes to the when test cord button is released, two terminals behind the compressor replace compressor. Plug the power cord into the power 45a instead of a test cord. It can receptacle. If light glows, proceed. This is a good tool to use on compressors that no longer run due to wear and tear to make them operational again.

Find the cold-control thermostat adjusting knob in the unit cabinet. Fasten the two jumper wire clips when the door is opened, check for a to the two terminals.

Using a screwdriver, 3. Turn on the power. If the unit starts running, hear a click. If the unit starts running, replace the thermostat. If unit remains dead, proceed. Connect the two test wire clips to the two electrical circuits while power is connected terminals on the overload protector. Always disconnect the power 2. Plug the unit into the power supply. If the unit starts running, replace component. If you are checking a compressor with a capacitor s , follow the same procedure after checking the capacitor s as outlined below.

If the capacitor is bad, it must be replaced with one of the same microfarad mfd or mf rating. If there is no exact capacitor replacement or a capacitor tester available, you can make a compressor test cord that can test capacitors too. See figure 34a and follow these instructions: 1. Disconnect the unit from the power supply. Discharge the capacitor and remove it from the unit. Put a watt light bulb in socket A fig. Insulate the alligator clip marked S and connect the alligator clips marked C and R to the two capacitor poles.

Connect plug B to power. The lamp will, a. If the capacitor checks good, replace the watt bulb with a watt bulb and leave the capacitor as it is for no longer than five seconds. Disconnect the cord from the power. Using a heavy insulated wire short across the two capacitor terminals. A spark is the indication of a good capacitor meaning that the capacitor can load and discharge. Bigger compressor motors that require more starting or running torque due to heavier loads use capacitors to increase their torque.

This is especially true in commercial refrigeration and air-conditioning. They are referred to as start or run capacitors. Some compressors use only run capacitors, and some use both. Capacitor testers can be purchased at refrigeration supply houses for very affordable prices. Disconnect the power supply. Remove the compartment cover, compressor terminal cover, start relay, and the wire connecting the overload protector to the common terminal. Connect the appropriate test cord wires to the proper compressor terminals.

The three test wires are marked C, S, and R. Plug the test cord into a proper power supply and depress the switch for no longer than three seconds. If the compressor never starts, or if it stops when the switch is released, it must be replaced.

A good compressor will continue to run because the power is still connected to its run and common windings through the test cord. Poor connections also cause compressor failure. Be sure to check these too, prior to replacing a compressor.

Tight and clean connections are essential for good current flow. If a compressor must be replaced, all the data for a duplicate replacement can be copied from the compressor nameplate to ensure getting the right one.

Do not remove the nameplate! The compressor may still be under warranty; if it is, removing the nameplate will void it. For compressors that require capacitor s to operate, figure 36 illustrates a testing cord that can be easily made.

You must use fourteen gauge or heavier wire. It shows wiring to the compressor terminals a run capacitor, a start capacitor, and a momentary-contact push-button switch.

Consequently, the test cord should be made with quick-disconnect fittings and adapters. Otherwise, the compressor is defective and it must be replaced. When the ohmmeter probes touch a single terminal and the housing ground , the meter should register a no-continuity reading an open circuit, an infinity reading, a figure 8 on the meter lying on its side ; otherwise, the compressor is shorted and it must be replaced.

Scratch or sand the paint off a small spot on the compressor housing to get a good contact. Disconnect the unit from the power source. Remove the compressor terminal cover. Remove the overload protector and starting relay from the three compressor terminals. Set the ohmmeter on its RX1 scale and zero it. Touch the probes to the compressor C and S terminals. The meter should register a continuity reading. Otherwise, replace the compressor. Touch the probes to the compressor C and R terminals to get a continuity reading.

Touch the probes to the compressor S and R terminals to get a continuity reading. If not, the compressor is defective. Touch one probe to the compressor housing and the other one to each terminal in turn.

In each case, the meter should register no-continuity reading. The compressor runs without being able to create the necessary pressure difference in the system simply because the parts are worn. This can be checked by using the pressure gauges. With the compound gauge connected to the low side and the pressure gauge connected to the high side, if the high-side pressure reads lower than normal and the low-side pressure reads higher than normal, the compressor will have to be replaced as it has lost its compression efficiency.

Since it is unable to maintain the required pressure difference in the sealed system, the evaporator temperature never reaches low enough to satisfy the thermostat, causing the unit to run constantly. Note that the evaporator may be covered with a heavy layer of soft frost. An efficient compressor produces a layer of hard frost on the evaporator coil. As more experience is gained, the evaporator frost pattern will become very evident.

When a compressor is turned off, the evaporator frost pattern disappears very quickly. The frost on the accumulator disappears in few seconds when placing a hand around it. An accumulator in a properly operating system is covered with hard frost.

There is an easy way to determine the compressor C, S, and R terminals. Here is how: Set the ohmmeter on its lowest scale. In figure 38, imagine the unmarked terminals as 1, 2, and 3.

The highest reading between any two terminals means that the remaining one is the common terminal. Since number 2 and number 3 terminals have the highest reading, it can be deduced that number 1 has to be the common terminal.

Some terminal configurations appear as in figure Use the same method to identify these too. Figure 37a Different styles of compressor terminals. The chart above shows the color coding for those wires connected to the compressor terminals. This color coding can be used to identify the compressor terminals when the letter marking is not visible. For example, when checking the compressor in an Admiral freezer, a glance at the chart will show you that the run terminal has a white wire connected to it, the start terminal has a black wire, and a red wire is connected to the common terminal.

Reversing the rotation of the compressor by the following method may break it loose: A. Prepare a single-pole, double-throw SPDT switch, two capacitors rated mfd, a line plug, and three alligator clips. Disconnect the unit from the power supply and remove all wires from the compressor terminals. Hook up the reversing circuit as shown and plug the cord into a VAC wall receptacle. Operate the reversing switch by rocking it back and forth to alternately reverse the rotation, causing the compressor to break loose.

These are called hermetic because they are mounted inside an airtight container with the compressor. Basically, there are four types of hermetic motors in commercial use today: 1. Split-phase hermetic motor as it has separate run and 1. Split-phase compressor generally used start windings used mainly in in residential and commercial units 2. A capacitor-start compressor used in residential units with limited commercial equipment use in small commercial units.

A rotary compressor 2. Capacitor-start, induction-run Courtesy of Tecumseh Products Company motor. Capacitor-start, capacitor-run motor. Split-phase hermetic is the simplest kind, used mostly for household refrigerators since the compressor motors do not require a lot Typical wiring for a hermetic, of starting torque. In these split-phase compressor motor operating on a units, when the thermostat current-type relay. In heavy commercial Typical wiring of a hermetic, units, the pressures do not split-phase compressor motor equalize because they use operating on a potential type TEV thermostatic electric relay.

These valves isolate the high and low sides, and the pressures in the system do not equalize very easily in the off cycle. In these motors, a relay controls the engagement of the start windings. The starting relay used may be of the thermal type, the current type or the potential type, which will be covered later. Capacitor-start compressor motor is a popular type of hermetic motor in refrigeration units. A capacitor is installed in series with the motor start winding to produce more starting torque by providing more initial voltage.

This capacitor is isolated from the circuit during the run cycle see fig. This type of compressor is normally used in walk-in coolers, salad bars, beverage coolers, ice machines, and similar commercial refrigeration units. Capacitor-start, capacitor-run compressor motor is a very efficient type of motor. A start capacitor increases its starting torque, and a run capacitor increases its efficiency during the run cycle.

It is used in commercial refrigeration for heavier applications such as larger walk-in coolers, heavier air conditioners, etc. Figure 44 illustrates how they are wired. Permanent-split, capacitor-run compressor motor.

This type of hermetic compressor motor is widely used in wall- or window-type air conditioners. It is not equipped with a start capacitor. Its starting torque is almost low.

Consequently, it is sensitive to the fluctuation of the line voltage. A run capacitor is installed between its start and run windings to provide more efficiency during the run cycle.

Figure 45 shows a typical wiring diagram of these motor compressors. Primarily, this kit see fig. Very often, a compressor that is thought to be defective can be restored to service by using a hard start kit.

A hard start kit is a great tool for the service technician. It eliminates a lot of work and time spent in testing several components and looking for the defective part when a compressor fails to run or cycles on overload.

Some hard start kits are designed for use on compressors operating on VAC and on air conditioners up to several tons. The wires on the kit are either color coded or individually labeled Start, Run, and Common. Disconnect the power from the unit.

Remove the overload protector and starter relay. Connect the start terminal of the compressor to the wire on the kit marked Start. Connect the run terminal of the compressor to the wire on the kit marked Run. Connect the common terminal of the compressor to the wire on the kit marked Common. Find the lines that supply power to the compressor. Normally, one goes into the overload protector and one to the start relay. Connect these lines to the remaining two wires on the hard start kit.

Plug the unit back in to the power source, and if the compressor starts and continues to run, then the problem is solved. If it does not, the compressor is defective.

In which case, remove the new hard start device and replace the compressor. Due to its length, the capillary tube may run through places difficult to reach. In such cases, it is easier to unclog it rather than replacing it. A capillary tube cleaner can be purchased from most major refrigeration supply houses. The way the device works is that it forces wax and dirt out of the capillary tube under high pressure.

Some of these devices are capable of producing pressures as high as 3, psi. An obvious sign of a clogged capillary tube is that the back pressure reads lower than normal or even vacuum , the head pressure reads higher than normal, the unit no longer cools while running constantly, and the condenser feels cooler than normal.

To use a capillary tube cleaner, disconnect the capillary tube at both ends. Flux and apply heat to the brazed joint to remove it.

Connect the tube cleaner to one open end of the capillary tube by using an adapter fitting; then turn the handle to create the pressure necessary to clear the tube. In these devices, either oil or R is used as a pressure fluid. After removing the obstruction from the tube, install a new filter-drier and silver-braze the tube back into the system before evacuating and charging the unit. Figure 45b Capillary tubes are not expensive, but sometimes they are hard to reach particularly in residential units.

The capillary tube begins in the compressor compartment in residential refrigerators and freezers, runs through the body of the unit and it is silver-brazed to the evaporator inlet. A lot of work and replacement time can be saved if a blockage can be cleared with a capillary tube cleaner.

Some of them are available with different sized strainers while some are fitted with a calibrated wire inside to control the flow of refrigerant see fig. If a new capillary tube is needed, it must always be replaced with one having the same inside diameter and the same length; Patented tubes can be used for capillary tube replacement.

This is a tool similar in appearance to a spark plug gapping tool used by auto mechanics. It consists of a number of different sized wires to measure the inside diameter of capillary tubes see fig. See the chart on the next page for the required length of tubing based on its inside diameter, the horsepower, and temperature rating of the compressor. When handling capillary tubes, it is important to remember that 1.

It is then bent carefully until it breaks. Using a pair of pliers, crimp the opposite wall of the larger tubing until it fits snugly around the capillary tube. Then clean and silver-braze the joint as instructed earlier. Because small tubing absorbs heat very rapidly, be careful no solder gets far enough inside to block the opening of the small tube and cause a restriction.

Fit the correct size valve body number 1 on the tube and crimp the saddle tabs around the tube with pliers. Then braze in place. Apply heat from below being careful not to overheat the body. Always sand the surfaces to be brazed and use flux.

When cooled, insert the piercing shaft number 2 into the body being careful not to damage the O-ring. Do not overtighten. Screw on access valve cap number 5. Tighten securely with one wrench while holding the body nut with another. Figure 45f Courtesy of Wagner Products Corp. Figure 45g shows a typical pinch-off tool.

To use it, put the tubing through the opening to the point where it is to be sealed. As the shaft is turned by the T-handle, the tubing is compressed between a ball bearing at the end of the shaft and the die at the base of the tool. A permanently pinched line is made by turning the handle slowly and not overtightening.

This too becomes necessary when there is a need to test the compressor efficiency or in an emergency, such as a severe leak, when a section of the sealed system must be isolated for repair. For example, in commercial units where there are multiple evaporators, the one with a leak can be isolated while allowing the rest of the system to operate during the repair work.

Thus, the contents of the unit can stay cold and be saved. When a leak occurs, oil escapes with the refrigerant and must be replaced for proper lubrication. Loud compressor noises can sometimes be remedied by adding a small amount of oil usually no more than one-half cup to the hermetic system. Use oil compatible with the system and of proper viscosity. Install two access valves on the refrigerator, one on the suction line, and one on the liquid line see figs. Connect the manifold gauges to the valves.

Compound gauge to the valve on the suction line, and high pressure gauge to the liquid line. By opening the valves on the manifold, freon can be released through the middle hose on the manifold. By law, the middle hose must be connected to a recovery machine p.

Details about this can be obtained from any refrigeration supply house where these tools are sold. As shown in fig. Open the manifold low pressure valve and allow oil to be drawn into the compressor. CAUTION: Shut off the low-side manifold valve while the end of the hos is still submerged in oil to prevent air from entering the system.

Close valve with the end of hose still submerged to prevent penetration of air into the system. Oil is added to the compressor while the unit runs. Figure 45i Access valves come in a variety of sizes and styles.

In commercial units, the service valves on the compressor discharge side or on the receiver and on the suction side may be opened and closed with a service wrench.

More about service valves on page Courtesy of Henry Valve Co. Remove the valve cap and stem from the valve, clean the joints with acetone as well as sandpaper, braze the correct-size valve on the tube, and allow it to cool before replacing the valve stem and cap.

Numbers 1, 2, and 3 are access valves that are silver-brazed to copper tubing. Number 1 can be used on various diameters of tubing. Number 4 shows the removal of the valve core from the body. Numbers 5, 6, and 7 are T-fittings installed on high- or low-side refrigerant lines. Numbers 5 and 7 are silver-brazed, and number 6 is connected by flared connections. Number 8, shown with its cap, has an extended tube.

It can be installed on the compressor access tube as numbers 1, 2, and 3, or on larger sized tubing where in-line fittings may not be available. Drill a hole in the wall of the tubing, insert the valve tube in the hole, and silver-braze the joint.

Take great care to prevent Figure 45k foreign particles from entering the system. A heavy accumulation of soft frost on the evaporator coil that can be easily removed. Low-side pressure reads higher than normal.

High-side pressure reads lower than normal. Low amperage reading when unit is running as compared with the FLA on the unit nameplate. Get an amperage reading from the wire connected to either the run or common terminal.

The unit runs constantly. When a residential unit is running, frost covering the accumulator disappears very quickly when the accumulator is held in the hand. These relays, used in residential units, are mounted on the compressor terminals under the terminal cover. Basically, they are of two types: those with two electrical terminals and those with three. In both cases, they are connected directly to the compressor run and start terminals. If relays are not mounted right side up, they will never open the circuit to the compressor start winding, causing the winding to burn.

Remove the access cover in the back of the unit. Remove the plastic compressor terminal cover. Pull off the relay from the compressor and disconnect its terminals from the wiring. Inspect the relay terminals for burn discoloration and the lead wires for charred insulation.

If so, replace the relay. If not: 6. Set the ohmmeter to the RX1 scale and zero the meter. Holding the starting relay in one hand with the TOP up, place the ohmmeter probes in the relay terminals.

Otherwise, the starting relay is defective and should be replaced. Turn the relay upside down and place the ohmmeter probes in the terminals. The meter should register an open-circuit reading. Otherwise, the relay should be replaced. Disconnect the power supply, remove the compartment cover of the unit, and remove the plastic cover.

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